173° Saphir Fumé

An entirely new model from Saint-Imier based independent watch company Zeitwinkel, the new 173º Saphir Fumé couples the manufactory’s signature in-house ZW0103 self-winding, large date calibre with its first sub-40mm case, and instead of coming up with a scaled down version of its bigger 42.5mm sibling, introduces a striking new model, with its own personality and style.

Established in 2006, Zeitwinkel is a brand which has steadfastly refused to adapt or react to the whims of convention, with each piece in its collection a carefully considered addition to a portfolio which offers the collector that elusive combination of contemporary understated sophistication and the exclusivity of a meticulously detailed hand manufactured wristwatch.

The new 39.7mm case in which the Zeitwinkel 173º collection is presented immediately fits in as a completely natural evolution for the company, and indeed brings its own identity with its almost minimalist design and spotlessly clean lines. However, as is so often the case with something which at first glance appears to be designed to be reserved and unfussy, the devil is in the detail, and on the 173º that attention to detail is evident everywhere.

A recessed mid section runs from the lugs, around the waist and the matte texture of its micro-blasted finish contrasts with the gleam of the polished edges and on the other surfaces of the case.  Similarly the crown has a blasted recess upon which the Zeitwinkel motif stands out in the centre, while a subtle concave curvature means that the polished bezel sweeps upwards to where it meets the slightly domed sapphire crystal.

Beneath, another defining staple of the Zeitwinkel design language is the fumé sapphire glass dial which provides an unrestricted view of the patented large date mechanism underneath, as well as the honeyed tones of the untreated German silver main plate, which has been decorated with perlage. Tapering hour and minute hands complement the hour indices, while the seconds are displayed on a counter at the six o’clock position. Higher up on the dial, the power reserve indicator boasts an impressive 72 hours of autonomy.

On the underside, another sapphire crystal provides a view of the workings of the in-house manufactured ZW0103 self-winding movement. Designed to endure, the movement is constructed using solid German silver which is found on the three-quarter plate, the bridges and balance cock, and on the openworked oscillating weight has a warm tone. Virtually every component, even those which will never be seen by the owner, is finished by hand and so there are Côtes de Genève stripes, chamfering and polished edges, and perlage on show. Beating at a brisk 28’800 vib/h (4Hz), the robust mainspring inside the single barrel gives the watch 72 hours of power reserve.

A superb addition to the Zeitwinkel proposal, the 173º Saphir Fumé is individually manufactured to order and can be further personalised with the choice of a wide range of straps.